As my culinary adventures proceeded, I tried a few other tomato sauces and couldn’t find anything I liked better than Mamma FoodHead’s Original Olde-Tyme Sauce…until this. Alton’s process, while not difficult, is certainly more labour intensive than “open the jar”, but the difference is reflected in the flavour.

It’s very versatile: I’ve made it with and without capers (if no capers, use olives, or add some extra salt), and I’ve added seasoned, browned ground beef just before the blending stage. I’ve made it with fresh seeded tomatoes — skin on. You can use it for pasta sauce, pizza sauce, braising liquid, brake fluid, etc. It’ll likely remove that stubborn stain and give you that “can do” corporate sheen too. Make it in bulk.

Say “no!” to the jar, and “yes! Yes! YES!” to taste.

Basic Tomato Sauce

2 (28-ounce) cans whole, peeled tomatoes
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 onion
1 carrot
1 stalk celery
2 ounces olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup white wine
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

In a sieve over a medium non-reactive saucepot, strain the tomatoes of their juice into the sauce pot.
Add the sherry vinegar, sugar, red pepper flakes, oregano, and basil to the tomato juice.
Stir and cook over high heat. Once bubbles begin to form on the surface, reduce to a simmer.
Allow liquid to reduce by 1/2 or until liquid has thickened to a loose syrup consistency.

Squeeze each tomato thoroughly to ensure most seeds are removed. Set the tomatoes aside.

Cut carrot, onion, and celery into uniform sizes and combine with olive oil and garlic in a non-reactive roasting pan over low heat.
Sweat the until the carrots are tender and the onion becomes translucent, 15 to 20 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and capers to the roasting pan.

Place roasting pan on the middle rack of the oven and broil for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes.
Tomatoes should start to brown slightly on edges with light caramelization.
Remove the pan from the broiler. Place the pan over 2 burners on the stove.
Add the white wine to the tomatoes and cook for 2 to 3 more minutes over medium heat.

Put the tomatoes into a deep pot or bowl and add the reduced tomato liquid to the tomatoes.
Blend to desired consistency and adjust seasoning

This recipe comes from the excellent Helen Rennie who somehow seems to post less since she became a mother. Strange

Scallop Ceviche

3/4 Lb scallops
2/3 cup fresh lime juice (from 4-5 limes)
2/3 cup fresh orange juice (from 1-2 oranges)
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, and very finely minced
1/2 large red onion, very thinly sliced
1 mango, peeled and diced
6 medium radishes, very thinly sliced (use a mandolin if you have one)
1/4 cup minced cilantro or mint
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt

Remove the tough muscle or foot from the sides of the scallops.
Slice scallops horizontally into 1/3 inch thick circles.
In a large non-reactive (glass or stainless steel) bowl, combine scallops, lime juice, orange juice, jalapeño, onions, mango, radishes, cilantro, and salt. Mix well.

Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours stirring half way through.
Taste and add more salt if needed.

Serve within 24 hours.

Sectarian conflicts aside, this is tasty, and versatile sauce with wonderful depth. I recently made it using fresh tomatoes (quickly cored and seeded) instead of canned, and a single chipotle to add some bite, and it was tremendous. Here at the FoodHead Test Kitchen, we’ve found it goes very well on pork, and grilled chicken. Or by itself.

Classic Barbecue Sauce

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 (8 ounce/250 ml) can of tomato sauce
1 (28 ounce/830 ml) can of whole tomatoes, with their juice
3/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (Remember: use half as much if you’re using fine table or sea salt)
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1/4 cup orange juice

(optional) 2 teaspoons liquid smoke
(optional) 1 chipotle chili, finely minced

1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until hot and shimmering, but not smoking.
2. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes.
3. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.
4. Reduce heat to the lowest possible setting and simmer, uncovered, and stirring occasionally until thickened, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
5. Puree, ideally using an immersion blender. Or, in small batches using a blender or food processor.

Use warm, or allow to cool and store in the fridge for 2 weeks or freezer for several months.

Variations

Mexican
Stir the following into the finished sauce:
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder
6 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 3 limes)
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

Asian
Stir the following into the finished sauce:
1 tablespoon minced ginger
6 tablespoons soy sauce
6 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

Caribbean
Stir the following into the finished sauce:
1 tablespoon Caribbean hot sauce
2 tablespoons pineapple juice
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 teaspoons sugar
pinch of ground allspice

The key is a heavy lidded pot, Dutch Oven, French Oven, or casserole dish that can be used both on the cooktop, and tightly covered and left in a slow oven.

Getcher Bird On.

French Chicken In A Pot

1 whole roasting chicken (4 1/2 to 5 lbs or 2 to 2.2 kg), giblets removed and discarded, wings tucked under back
2 tsp kosher salt or 1 tsp table salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 small celery stalk, chopped (about 1/4 cup)
6 medium garlic cloves, peeled and trimmed
1 bay leaf
1 medium sprig fresh rosemary
1/2 to 1 tsp lemon juice

1. Adjust an oven rack to lowest position. Preheat oven to 250 F
2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper
3. In a large dutch oven over medium heat, heat oil until just smoking. Add chicken, breast side down. Scatter onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf and rosemary around chicken.
4. Cook until breast is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a wooden spoon inserted into cavity of bird, flip chicken breast side up and cook until chicken and vegetables are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Remove dutch oven from heat. Place a large sheet of foil over pot, then cover tightly with lid.
6. Transfer pot to oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer registers 160 F when inserted in the thickest part of the breast and 175 F when inserted in the thickest part of the thigh, 80 to 110 minutes.
7. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent with foil and let rest or 20 minutes.
8. Meanwhile, strain chicken juices from pot through fine-mesh strainer (into a fat separator, if you have one), pressing on solids to extract liquid. Discard solids.
9. Allow liquid to settle for 5 minutes, spoon off any fat on top, then pour into a saucepan and set over low heat.
10. Carve chicken, adding any accumulated juices to saucepan. Stir lemon juice into saucepan to create the sauce.
11. Serve chicken, accompanied with tasty, tasty sauce.

Note, if you’re using a different sized chicken:
Cooking times are for a 4 1/2 to 5 lb bird.
A 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pound chicken will take about an hour.
A 5 to 6 lb bird will take close to two hours.

For all of you who live and die by the printed word in a recipe, take note: this is a very, very flexible dish. You can vary or eyeball the amounts of just about anything below and still turn out a reasonable pie. I usually add another carrot and maybe another 1/4 or 1/2 cup of peas to combat some of the overwhelming heartiness of it all. If you want to add little cut up bits of cocktail weiners or pickled onions or something, really, why not. Fill yer boots.

Shepherd’s Pie

The Meat Of The Matter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 3/4 pounds ground beef or lamb
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup beef stock or broth
2-3 teaspoons Worcestershire
1/2 cup frozen peas

While potatoes cook (see below for One Potato, Two Potato), preheat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add oil to hot pan with beef or lamb. Season meat with salt and pepper. Brown and crumble meat for 3 or 4 minutes. If you are using lamb and the pan is fatty, spoon away some of the drippings. Add chopped carrot and onion to the meat. Cook veggies with meat 5 minutes, stirring frequently. In a second small skillet over medium heat cook butter and flour together 2 minutes. Whisk in broth and Worcestershire sauce. Thicken gravy 1 minute. Add gravy to meat and vegetables. Stir in peas.

Preheat broiler to high. Fill a small rectangular casserole with meat and vegetable mixture. Spoon potatoes over meat evenly.
If using white potatoes, top with paprika
If using sweet potatoes, top with Chinese five spice mixture

Broil 6 to 8 inches from the heat until white potatoes are evenly browned. I don’t brown sweet potatoes, just broil ‘em.

You can also make this ahead of time — instead of broiling, cover the casserole pan and refrigerate. To reheat, simply place, uncovered, into a 350 degree oven until hot in the centre. Then, broil as instructed.

One Potato – Classic white potato, laden with saturated dairy goodness
2 pounds potatoes, such as russet, peeled and cubed
2 tablespoons sour cream or softened cream cheese
1 large egg yolk
1/2 cup cream, for a lighter version substitute vegetable or chicken broth
1 teaspoon sweet paprika (OPTIONAL)

Boil potatoes in salted water until tender, about 12 minutes. Drain potatoes and pour them into a bowl. Combine sour cream, egg yolk and cream. Add the cream mixture into potatoes and mash until potatoes are almost smooth.

Two Potato – Sweet potato, laden with flava, lacking in dairy fat
2 pounds of sweet potato
1/4 cup 0% fat yogurt
1 teaspoon Chinese five spice mixture (OPTIONAL).
OR
1 Chipotle chili in adobe, minced fine (OPTIONAL). This adds some significant heat that complements sweet potatoes nicely.

Place whole unpeeled sweet potatoes on a foil lined sheet or roasting pan into a 400 degree oven for 45 minutes or until soft in the middle — a sharp thin blade will slide in easily.
Allow to cool
Remove peel from potatoes, removing any fibrous bits
Gently break up potatoes with a fork and stir in yogurt (and Chipotle & adobo, if using). Do not over-stir — too much action will make the sweet potatoes gummy.

Throw out your pantry full of packages, take your special helmet off and live a little. It’ll be better for you.

Creole Chicken

Chicken Parts (Legs, Wings, Drumsticks, whatever you like)
Creole Rub

Rub chicken all over with creole rub and refrigerate for an hour.

Pre-heat BBQ for twenty minutes, then turn off secondary grill. Turn primary grill to medium low.
Put chicken on inactive or “cool” side. Small drumsticks finish in about 40 – 50 minutes, larger pieces will take longer. Flip chicken after 20 minutes.

Creole Rub
3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons kosher salt (use less if you’re using salt with smaller grain)
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried thyme
(makes about 3/4 cup – enough for 4 pounds seafood or chicken)

Combine all the ingredients in a jar, twist the cap on airtight, and shake to mix. Store away from heat and light for up to 6 months.

Today’s feature is a simple summer salad of Tomato and Onion that takes a few minutes to put together, captures the fresh tastes of summer, and goes well with just about anything you might grill.

Once salted, the tomatoes will start to break down and give off moisture which is good in small doses, but too much can make the salad sloppy. If you don’t like it sloppy, don’t salt too soon. Words to live by.

Enough with the pleasantries. On with the show, this is it.

Creamy Tomato Onion Salad

2 cups cherry or grape tomatoes
1 cup coursely chopped sweet onion (Vidalia, say. Or red. Or yellow.)
3 or 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or basil. Substitute at will.
2 tablespoons plain yoghurt (No fat, low fat or full figured — it’s your boat to float)

1. Slice the tomatoes in half, lengthwise, leaving some smaller ones intact.
2. Chop onion. My onion likes a rough Iggy Pop chop, but yours might like a smoother, Burt Bacharach treatment.
3. Chop herbs.
4. Add tomatoes, onion, herbs to bowl, and stir in creamy, creamy yoghurt.
5. Season with salt and pepper. Kosher and freshly ground, respectively.

Pear, Limoncello and Riesling Granita

1 cup (250 ml) water
2 cup (500 ml) riesling wine
1/2 cup (125 ml) sugar
2 ripe pears, peeled, seeded and cut into quarters
1/4 cup (60 ml) limoncello liqueur
GarnishLemon zest or slices or mint sprigs

In a medium saucepan, mix together water, 1 cup (250 ml) of wine and sugar and bring to a boil. Add pears, lower heat to simmer and cook pears gently, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly in cooking liquid. Drain pears, reserving cooking liquid.

In a food processor, puree pears until smooth. You should have 1 cup (250 ml) of puree.

Transfer to a mixing bowl. Add cooking liquid, remaining wine and limoncello. Mix well.

Pour into a shallow pan that will fit into the freezer, such as a 8-in. (20-cm) square cake pan, and freeze. Gently stir granita every 2 hours or until frozen. This allows the mixture to freeze without separating and gives a proper crystal-like texture.

Once granita is frozen, scrape mixture with a spoon and server immediately. Garnish with lemon zest or a sprig of mint.

Anyway, after a long hiatus, FoodHead is back, and back with a tasty recipe. This is a delicious soup that was originally made with a white or gold potato, but was cunningly modified for use with sweet potato before being passed along to me.

As always, FoodHead posts nothing that hasn’t passed several complex test criteria:

1. “Hey, I liked that!”
2. “Did you like that?”
3. “I’d make that again.”

Sweet Potato and Black Bean Soup

1 tablespoon oil (olive is good)
1 large onion, diced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 hot pepper, finely chopped (to taste, really. If you like the jalapeño, use one. If you like Guatemalan Insanity Peppers, use one of those)
1 – 2 teaspoons cumin
1 cup stock (or water if you’re not particular about things like flavour, and such)
1 can black beans. (About 2 or 2 1/2 cups cooked) (If canned, drain and rinse the goo off first)
1 big ol’ sweet potato (or, a couple of large regular potato), peeled and diced
1 – 1 1/2 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa.
Large bunch of fresh chopped parsley or cilantro, or combination. I use maybe a cup, cup and half, chopped. There is no wrong.
1 diced tomato or 1 diced red bell pepper.
Salt, to taste.

Add oil to a large sauce pan over medium high heat. Sauté onion. Add garlic and hot pepper. Add Let onions brown a bit. Add cumin just as onion browns. Add can of black beans. Mash some of the beans up a bit. Add cup of stock or water. Add potato, bring to simmer. Simmer until potato is soft. Stir in cocoa, chopped parsley/cilantro. (Save some herbs for garnish.) Just before the serving, add diced tomato or red pepper (but don’t cook it.)